Geyser Installation - Truths

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In this write-up I will certainly describe the regular standard needs of a noise, modern high pressure, horizontal installation. The following description associates to a modern high stress (400/600Kpa) system generally made by Kwikot South Africa.



Much less usual are old low stress systems (100kpa) open pipe or "Latco" kind systems. Be mindful that the components are NOT interchangeable in between both distinct systems - High pressure and also Reduced pressure! It is possible to get rid of an old low stress system as well as replace it with a modern high stress system however - you acquire a new high stress geyser as well as install it according to the present requirements.



The same regulations use yet there are some unique considerations outlined at the end - with a representation. picture kwikot - The most apparent thing that you need to observe today. The hot spring beings in a tray made of plastic (commonly red) or tin plate. I choose the plastic ones.

Since June 2001, the drip tray is not optional - its obtained to be there and there has to be a drainpipe pipe for it! The drain is a 50mm PVC waste pipe that drains pipes the tray by piping the water out the home (geyser installation).

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The following most obvious function would certainly be the. These are small brass elements placed at the end of a 30cm size of pipe. Both vacuum breakers stand vertically concerning 30cm above the hot spring. These are crucial, as they stop water siphoning out the hot spring when the cool supply is stopped.

It can be said that this is the primary feature, yet I don't see it. Bear in mind that vacuum cleaner breakers are a sensibly new need - there are still thousands of old HP systems out there without vacuum cleaner breakers and I am yet to see one collapse. Just due to the fact that I have not seen it does not indicate it's not happening nevertheless! It is likewise more most likely to take place in a multi-story building since the siphon can attract a more powerful vacuum cleaner.

The cool water side is the side that directly links to the drain cock and enters the geyser at the bottom. After the closed off shutoff you would usually locate a Pressure Control Shutoff (PCV). There are a variety of various kinds, mostly made from brass yet some are constructed from plastic.

This is where the PCV launches stress and also this is the pipe that usually trickles. Do not worry if you can not locate the PCV next to the geyser - it might be totaled 10 metres away, commonly in an extra available position on a wall outside. Sometimes it remains in a little plastic box exterior.

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This is a crucial component that must never ever be tinkered or 'repaired'. This shutoff needs to have a steel (copper or steel) pipeline attached to it and also the pipeline need to lead straight out the structure. This vent pipeline is a vital safety and security function of the entire system. It has to be made from copper or steel - plastic.

The T&P valve is the least optional element - it has to exist! - The weight of the useful site hot spring must be properly supported on the roofing trusses - a minimum of 2 supports under the 'feet' of the geyser. If it looks shaky obtain a plumber to examine it out.

This was not a need on old hot springs, however it is currently and also it's worth suitable one. The hot spring has to be earthed! I have seen several hot springs with the earth cord inapplicable. All the copper pipelines should likewise be earthed and also bonded to the geyser earth. This is not a trivial preventative measure! Get a certified electrician to examine your setup if the bonding is missing out on he said or looks dodgy.


Once more, these are usually just left existing following to the geyser. There are basically only two primary thermostat kinds - the modern-day round "Kwiktherm" in more recent Kwikot geysers as well as the VK (rectangle-shaped block) enter older geysers and also in some newer non-Kwikot units. The hot spring may be fed (chilly water) with polcop (plastic) pipe - approximately the shut down shutoff, but the pipeline into and out of the hot spring have to be copper or galvanized steel.

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The warm water side must be copper, steel or appropriately rated (70) plastic or composite pipe. Note that you have to have at least 1m of copper/steel pipe out the geyser - you might not link plastic (composite) pipeline directly to the geyser. As above, the PCV as well as T&P have to be constructed from copper or steel - specifically the vent out of the T&P valve.



I have seen Click Here a variety of setups where the installer has merely run a short size of 22mm copper into the drip tray with the idea being that the T&P can air vent directly right into the drip tray. A suggestion since the hot (100 +) water/steam melts the drip tray and the PVC drainpipe pipeline.

The PCV is commonly over the hot spring as well as the cool water streams down into the hot spring. This is rather essential since it develops an anti-syphon loop that protects against the geyser from draining pipes back with the inlet in case of a water system failing. If you get hot water appearing your chilly taps when the water fails then this is not functioning appropriately.

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